How to Drink & Enjoy Mezcal
BY FABRICE LE MAO
HOW DO YOU DRINK MEZCAL?
After wandering through the fields of Agaves and discovering their unique characteristics and flavors, let's turn our attention to the best way to drink Mezcal.
Often, people new to Mezcal reach an early stumbling block: “But, how do I drink it?” The short-cut answer may seem off-putting but couldn't be more accurate: you put it in your mouth. Indeed, all facetiousness aside, it's that simple! Mezcal is meant to be enjoyed - however you want to drink it.
However, there are some technicalities that can enhance your Mezcal drinking experience. First, let's bury the image of taking Mezcal shots once and for all. Not only does it do a disservice to the Mezcaleros' incredible work and to Mezcal itself, but it has no foundation in the tradition.
WHAT TYPE OF GLASS DO YOU USE FOR MEZCAL?
Now the tools! The vessels from which you consume a beverage enhance its flavors. You wouldn't use a champagne flute for your coffee, would you? For the best glass to drink Mezcal from, here are your options:
The Jicara. This is the most traditional vessel - the hollowed-out dried fruit of the Crescentia Cujete/Calabash Tree that grows commonly in Oaxaca. Add the little ring made out of fiber to stabilize it on the table, and nothing could be more authentic.
The Copita. This updated, more durable version of the Jicara is usually made out of clay or ceramics but is meant to mimic the shape and function of the Jicara.
The Veladora. Often used to hold candles, veladoras are commonly used as drinking vessels for Mezcal. While in Oaxaca, you inevitably consume a lot of Mezcal out of veladoras with a tiny cross at the bottom because many were produced by the Catholic Church. Mezcal trivia!
Why such open mouth and somewhat low countenance vessels? Because the essence of Mezcal reveals itself when the alcohol starts to evaporate a little bit, leading to the use of wider-mouth vessels being considered the best glasses for mezcal. On this renewed path to nobility, Mezcal is often served in snifters similar to those used for Brandy or Cognac. Although it is well-intentioned, it is unnecessary. Mezcal doesn't need (nor want) to be warmed up, and its aroma longs to be freed in a larger drinking glass that encourages enjoyment.
DO YOU DRINK MEZCAL NEAT OR ON THE ROCKS?
Now that you have chosen your drinking vessel, we recommend you start by tasting Mezcal neat! It's the traditional way Mezcal is served in Oaxaca. Take a little sip as you would first kiss a lover. Let the flavor unfold in your mouth. Surrender to the journey of hundreds of years distilled into every sip. Behind the smokiness –inherent to the making of Mezcal– you will want to pay attention to all the subtle flavors, whether they are part of the Agave or meticulously added by the Mezcaleros. If the Agave is the essence, the process contributes to the deliverance of all the subtleties. Slices of oranges sprinkled with Sal de Gusano are often/traditionally served on the side. Kiss your Mezcal and follow it closely with its salty fruit accompaniment for a tiny trip to Oaxaca in your mouth.
WHAT KIND OF MEZCAL SHOULD I TRY FIRST?
As for what kind of Mezcal to start with, Espadin is the reference, the starting point upon which you are going to build your palate. A crucial point to keep in mind is that much like wine, year after year, the taste of Espadin (and all the other Agaves/Mezcal) will be slightly different. This is precisely what makes the richness of Mezcal and sets it apart from all the other spirits.
Wine connoisseurs often have little notebooks on which they record everything about their experience during wine tastings. How about starting one for Mezcal? And since you are taking notes on the pine, fruits, flowers, and leathery flavor of your Mezcal, you might as well try some mezcal cocktail recipes. Absolutely no other spirit in the world unfolds cocktail flavors such as Mezcal.
Salud!